Is Butter Healthier Than Low-Fat Spreads?

The popularity of butter is on the rise. Social media celebrates its advantages over lower-fat alternatives, and the crime thriller Butter by Asako Yuzuki topped the Sunday Times bestseller list earlier this year, captivating readers with its intriguing title and vibrant cover. It seems full-fat options are making a comeback, possibly due to an increasing awareness of the downsides of ultra-processed foods.

Many shoppers are opting for butter: Waitrose reported a remarkable 20 percent increase in sales of spreadable butter in February compared to the previous year, while sales of sunflower-based spreads dropped by 30 percent. But does consuming butter really contribute to a longer life? Is margarine truly the villain? And what is the best choice for spreading on toast?

“This is a debated issue,” remarks Dr. Sarah Berry, a professor specializing in nutritional science and chief scientist for the nutrition app Zoe. Butter consists mainly of milk—and perhaps a pinch of salt—leading many to consider it a “natural” and healthier option. In contrast, margarines and other low-fat spreads are primarily composed of vegetable or seed oils, with added emulsifiers like lecithin for consistency, and often fortified with vitamin A to enhance their yellow hue.

Some studies suggest that certain emulsifiers might negatively affect health, particularly their influence on the gut microbiome—the complex system of bacteria, fungi, and viruses within our digestive system. However, Berry clarifies that there is no evidence to indicate that lecithin adversely affects the microbiome.

What about seed oils? Often referred to as the “hateful eight”—including sunflower, rapeseed, and grapeseed oils—they are frequently blamed for causing chronic inflammation in the body. “Seed oils are generally high in omega-6 fatty acids, which are polyunsaturated fats that have received criticism,” Berry states. The human body can convert linolenic acid, a commonly found omega-6 fatty acid, into arachidonic acid, which is involved in inflammation and blood vessel constriction. However, a 2009 study by the American Heart Association revealed that our bodies only convert a negligible amount of linolenic acid into arachidonic acid, indicating that the omega-6 fats in seed oils are actually beneficial for heart health.

Regarding cholesterol, fat in the body is derived from both dietary intake and liver production of monounsaturated and saturated fats. While it’s advisable to obtain a portion of daily calories from saturated fat, excessive amounts can elevate “bad” low-density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol, heightening the risk of heart disease. Butter is especially high in saturated fat.

Conversely, unsaturated fats, particularly the omega-6 fats found in seed oils, are beneficial for health. “They have a strong cholesterol-lowering impact,” says Berry. “Transitioning from butter to spreads significantly reduces cholesterol levels and enhances blood vessel function. The evidence consistently shows that spreads are healthier compared to butter.”

The negative perception of margarine may stem from its past content of trans fats, which raise “bad” LDL cholesterol and decrease “good” high-density lipoprotein (HDL) cholesterol, elevating the chances of heart disease and stroke. However, trans fats have been largely removed from processed foods in both the US and Europe for over a decade.

When it comes to taste, butter often has the advantage, especially on a warm baked potato. As always, moderation plays a crucial role. “Enjoy butter, but in limited quantities,” advises Berry, adding she would never consider baking a birthday cake without it. “Just be mindful not to replace all your spreads with butter.”