Exosomes: The Ultimate Secret for Skin and Beauty

Exosomes may be unfamiliar to many, yet they have been utilized by medical professionals for several years in skin therapies. As beauty brands begin incorporating them into their offerings, beauty enthusiasts eager to enhance their skin will likely discover their benefits.

Exosomes are naturally occurring microscopic vesicles in our bodies that transport proteins and lipids between cells, resembling tiny water-filled balloons. Their ability to communicate with cells makes them particularly valuable. Dr. Jonathan Dunne, a consultant plastic surgeon and founder of the aesthetic clinic Montrose London, which employs plant-based exosomes, explains that they can spark the production of collagen and elastin, essential for maintaining youthful skin. These substances decline with age, but exosomes can invigorate struggling cells back to vitality.

Cell-regenerating products like retinoids have long been known for promoting new skin cell production. However, Rebecca Cullen-Smith, education director for Dermalogica, asserts that exosomes, when applied topically, are even more effective. Dermalogica has recently unveiled its Exo Booster, which incorporates exosomes created from bacteria. According to Cullen-Smith, these exosomes are compatible with our skin and are as effective, if not more so, than those derived from bovine or human sources, which are popular in Asia but banned for cosmetic use in the UK.

The distinction between retinoids and exosomes lies in their mechanisms of action. Cullen-Smith explains that while “retinoids can trigger cells to activate or deactivate biological processes by binding to specific receptor proteins that facilitate collagen production,” exosomes are far more intricate. They not only send signals to cells but also deliver essential biological elements required for certain functions. Consequently, they can encourage cells to generate collagen and enhance elasticity. A study published last year in the International Journal of Biological Sciences noted that they also assist in minimizing inflammation, promoting tissue repair, and enhancing tissue regeneration.

What changes can one expect after treatment with exosomes? Aside from the immediate brightening and lifting effects observed during facial or microneedling procedures—where exosomes are applied like a serum—significant alterations in skin appearance won’t be instantaneous like those induced by dermal fillers.

Nonetheless, benefits should materialize over time as the skin’s natural healing processes are activated and accelerated, leading to smoother lines, improved texture and tone, and a more plump, refreshed complexion. Experts commonly note that these improvements typically manifest within a month following treatment. A clinical trial comparing microneedling alone to microneedling with exosomes revealed an impressive 86 percent greater reduction in the appearance of wrinkles after three weeks for the latter.

Katharine Mackenzie Paterson, a facialist based in London who has incorporated bacterial and plant-based exosome treatments into her offerings, states that these treatments also help soothe inflammation and repair damaged skin, making them ideal for those with sensitive skin.

After undergoing exosome treatments for several weeks with Dermalogica and KMP, testers reported consistent improvements in their skin. One remarked on the effect resembling having consistently enjoyed eight hours of sleep, with both noting reduced reliance on foundation post-treatment. This outcome aligns with the desire for a refreshed appearance rather than a drastically altered one.

Costs for exosome treatments start at £330 at Dermalogica; £595 at Katharine Mackenzie Paterson for microneedling with exosomes; and £495 at Montrose London.